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Dual-function supramolecular system of α-hydroxy acid-based ionic liquids and peptides for enhanced anti-aging transdermal delivery

Study · human · Journal of materials chemistry. B · 2025 · DOI 10.1039/d5tb00580a · PMID 40626902

Plain-language summary

Paraphrased from the published abstract below — not a verdict on whether anything works.

This study combined in vitro transdermal experiments, molecular dynamics simulations, cellular assays, and a human clinical trial to test a co-assembly system of malic acid-derived ionic liquid (BMa) and acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AHP-8) for transdermal anti-aging delivery. In vitro, 24-h cumulative permeation of AHP-8 in BMa/AHP-8 was 3.10 times that of free AHP-8; molecular dynamics simulations indicated BMa reduces the free energy barrier for AHP-8 permeation via cation-lipid matrix interactions. Cellular assays showed BMa/AHP-8 increased collagen I production via the TGF-β pathway and inhibited acetylcholine release more than AHP-8 alone. In the clinical trial, subjects using BMa/AHP-8 facial cream reported a greater reduction in wrinkle number, length, and area after 28 days than those using AHP-8 alone.

Abstract

This work developed a dual-function supramolecular co-assembly system based on malic acid-derived ionic liquid (BMa) and acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AHP-8) for enhanced anti-aging transdermal delivery. The system alleviates dynamic wrinkles by inhibiting neurotransmitter release and repairs static wrinkles by promoting collagen production. In vitro transdermal studies showed that the 24-h cumulative permeation of AHP-8 in BMa/AHP-8 was 3.10 times that of free AHP-8. Molecular dynamics simulations revealed that BMa reduces the free energy barrier for AHP-8 permeation mainly due to the interactions between cations and the lipid matrix. Cellular assays demonstrated that BMa/AHP-8 significantly increased collagen I production by regulating the TGF-β pathway and inhibited acetylcholine release more effectively than AHP-8 alone. Clinical trials indicated that the subjects using the BMa/AHP-8 facial cream experienced a greater reduction in wrinkle number, length, and area after 28 days than those using AHP-8 monotherapy. This research provides a novel transdermal delivery approach for developing non-invasive, highly effective anti-aging cosmetic formulations.

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